Showdetails Accessories 19- Autumn Winter 2018-19
A journey through three atemporal worlds, distant from one another in both location and concept, a path between the old European continent and the Western lands. A swirling airflow makes the accessory purely decorative in Forget Noblesse, where practicality and functionality are not required and the only purpose is to add beauty and elegance in a totally irreverent way. Free rein then to ribbons, bows, zips, rhinestones – all teamed with metallized finishes. Showcasing pure lines and a balance between environment and the human figure, Studio Skandinavia introduces the Northern European Weltanschauung: a dynamic yet rigorous mood for futuristic bags and shoes featuring smooth surfaces and compact constructions. With Guitars & Cadillacs, our next stop is the USA Southern States to experience an atmosphere of adventure in dry lands. Cowgirl boots with straps, buckles and studs of all possible types alternate with large and small bags embellished with visible stitching, embroidery and fringes – essential for exciting travels in the wild Dixieland.
Debutante balls, tea at five o’clock, polo matches, receptions and drive shooting: “what a bore!”. The high society’s new generation 3.0 breaks ranks, infringes all the rules and brazenly sweeps away the dress code of their obsolete gilded cage. As the surprised and disoriented establishment looks on, they confidently parade in real posh masterpieces. One example are Gucci’s heeled loafers, which radiate light with lemon yellow burnt-out velvet and a visible chain. Then comes a look fit for a college trip, made up of a Burberry bag covered with the brand’s classic motif, trimmed with sky blue lacquered leather and a chain strap, to pair with Miu Miu white ballet flats with a big bow and contrasting zip that look like they want to get dirty as soon as possible. A dull encounter with the Royals forces a return to a more moderate style, featuring an Antonio Marras negative-effect handbag with a satin braid handle and closure and a visible pouch, or an Altuzarra mignon bag made up of three coin holders. When night falls, all back to the Kensington flat while the parents are out, of course. N°21’s kitten shoes with rhinestones and bows come out while Tom Ford’s acid green leopard print shoes with jewelled heel are fit for real aristocratic It Girls. Also unmissable are Kenzo’s half-empty little candy pink bags with big plastic gems, John Galliano’s sack bag festooned with a luminous grid and Elie Saab’s compact tribute to the noble pearl.
“Lagom”, the Swedes would say, which is a concise way of describing the rare place where balance and moderation meet. The North expresses a life philosophy in which harmony, form and function move in unison and a nod to the environment is essential. Leading the way in this ‘understated’ mood are Stella McCartney’s Loop sneakers, manufactured without using glue and featuring an organic rubber sole from renewable resources. As minimal as white sheets, the Balenciaga and Sportmax bags feature a hand carried rigid structure, reminiscent of André Courrèges’ avant-garde lunar missions. The Chelsea boots by 3.1 Phillip Lim come in a warmer tone with side elastic and contrasting para rubber, great for the first day of product design, while, still in wood tints, Marni’s oversize satchel offers organic, understated lines with crossing shoulder straps also working as closure. Seemingly designed to create absolute convergence between the various parts, according to the outfit it is styled with, Paco Rabanne’s perfectly cylindrical bag comes in black leather and is surgically notched to reveal the ivory lining beneath. Jil Sander’s storm grey slip-ons are worthy of the Compasso d’Oro, featuring matt leather moulded like a sheet of paper, while Lanvin’s are so ergonomic that they perfectly follow the shape of the foot with a twist in the lug sole.
Guitars & Cadillacs
The regular rhythm echoing over dried, cracked landscape is the sound of the hooves of wild horses galloping across the plain under the expert guidance of young herdswomen. The West is an often inhospitable land, but those born on the prairie know that having the right gear is the best way to survive the Indians and bandits. Our cowgirls wear Chloé lace-up boots in brocade fabric with leather inlays and a studded heel in place of spurs. For a more romantic encounter, they opt for Fendi’s ankle boots, glossy with a pointed toe and a sculptural two-colour wooden heel. Bags are spacious, like Etro’s in desert tones that teams suede patchwork with raised stitching, a cascade of fringes and chiselled medallions. Or those by 3.1 Phillip Lim and Chloé that pay homage to the strength of the pure-blood, the former with big pony skin panels, the latter with a rearing mustang printed on black leather. To bring the herd to pasture, you need a low heel like the one on Paco Rabanne’s ankle boots in soft suede with metal toes and topstitching reminiscent of Cherokee blankets, while Dior’s bag with hanging or embroidered beads looks like an old leather canteen. The day ends with a beer at the saloon – the perfect opportunity to wear Mary Katrantzou’s lace-up boots with front cut-outs and thin heel, without ever losing that innate gutsiness.